Figure 1: Channel Master’s model 3017 is a combination VHF/UHF Yagi type antenna. The front portion (to the rightof the mast) receives UHF channels 13 through 69. The back section receives VHF channels 2 through 13.

The problem was his antenna, which is far more critical for DTV than it has ever been for old-style analog TV. Fortunately, you don’t have to understand the inane acronyms or complex logarithmic-equation differences between VHF and UHF antennas to know which type you need to receive DTV. All you have to do is go to www.antennaweb.org and look at the channel numbers of the stations you want. If you want channels 2 through 13, for example, then you need a VHF antenna (see Figure 1, back section). If, as in most areas, your DTV channels are between channels 14 and 69, then you can use a significantly smaller UHF antenna (see Figures 2 and 3). If your digital stations are spread between channel 2 and 69, go with the combo VHF/UHF antenna (Figure 1). Figures 1 and 3 are considered Yagi type antennas, while Figure 2 is called a bow tie (or a stacked bow tie) antenna. You don’t really need to know that, but these terms get mentioned a lot. Aesthetics aside, there’s no substantial difference between a UHF Yagi and a bow tie antenna.

Basically, you want to point the antenna towards the transmitting towers and receive as strong a signal as you can. The closer you are to the tower, the stronger the signal will be. Ideally you should have a clear line of sight; obstacles will weaken the signal if not obscure it altogether. Large objects nearby that don’t block the signal but are taller than your antenna, like mountains and office buildings, might cause reflections. Reflected or "ghost" signals arrive at your tuner along with the original signal and can confuse the receiver. Pointing the antenna in precisely the correct direction will help eliminate these reflected signals and give you more reliable DTV reception.

Figure 2: A stacked "bow tie" antenna like this one (model 3021) will receive UHF channels.

Antennaweb.org will give you the compass directions for your local stations so you can easily point your antenna. Using the website, you can determine the distance to your local transmitter based on the city the channel is transmitting from and the size of the antenna that the site recommends. Larger antennas are more directional, which means they’ll reject those annoying reflected signals. They also have more gain, which means the antenna will obtain a stronger signal from distant or otherwise weak transmissions. Smaller antennas are less directional, which means they can pick up transmissions that come from different directions, but have lower gain (the signals you get won’t be as strong) and don’t reject reflections. An antenna preamp can help you boost the signal level, so long as you can receive a reasonably clean signal to begin with.

Ideally, all your local stations will transmit from one location, and you can buy the largest antenna you can afford or live with. If domestic or neighborly bliss requires a lower profile, use a small- or medium-sized antenna with a preamplifier. In some cases, even if you’re close to the transmitters, signal reflections from nearby objects will necessitate the use of a larger, more directional antenna. You might be able to hide the antenna in your attic provided the roof isn’t made with materials that block the signal, like metal sheeting or chicken wire. Wood, non-metallic clay, tile or asphalt shingle roofs will reduce the signal level about 20 percent, so unless you have signal to spare, you might need a larger antenna in the attic, possibly with a preamp, than you otherwise would need outdoors.

If local stations are located in different directions and are too far away for a small, multidirectional antenna to pick up, or if they’re close by but there are too many reflections from nearby objects, you have two options. Both options require a larger, more directional, higher-gain antenna. One option is to get a rotor. This is a motor connected to the antenna mast that is controlled by a rotary switch in your living room. Turning the switch causes the motor to rotate the antenna to point in the desired location. It’s not a great solution, but it’s relatively cheap and works well enough.

Figure 3: Like the bow tie antenna, this UHF Yagi antenna (model 4248) will receive channels 13 through 69. There is no major performance difference between the Yagi and the bow tie.

If DTV worked as well as radio, we could use the coat hanger duct taped to the roof of a 1977 Dodge Dart to pull in TV stations. Unfortunately, DTV isn’t so forgiving. Until more cable companies provide local DTV service, an antenna is your best bet. If you have satellite, you might be waiting a long time before they offer local stations in HD, in which case an antenna is your only option. It might even be a good idea just as a backup. In any case, antennas aren’t black magic, they’re dirt cheap and the signals are free. With a little time and effort you should be able to make it work.

Additional Resource Factors to Consider When Choosing the Right Antenna

Special thanks to Wayne Massengill, technical support coordinator, and Larry Hiney, business area director, at Channel Master, for their antenna expertise and assistance with this article.